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If you are having problems with any components of your pond, we can help! We service, repair, maintain and replace pumps, skimmers, filters, filter media, plants, fish, liner, leaks and more!

It is important to us to teach our customers about their pond to understand it better and enjoy it more. That's why we have come up with some troubleshooting information to share with you. Not only will you learn your pond, but you may be able to save some money on a visit if it is a simple fix!

CHECKLIST FOR A PROBLEM WITH YOUR PUMP

 

A lot of times there is an easy solution to an issue you’re having with your pump. We recommend following these simple steps before scheduling an appointment with your pond professional.

 

  1. PUMP RUNNING SLOWLY OR CLOGGING

  • Check your skimmer or prefilter (if equipped) for any debris.

  • If submersible pump, check the intake (or where the water flows into the pump) for any debris. If you are more hands-on, you can take the next step. Shut your pump off and disconnect the tubing from the pump. Inspect inside pump and tubing for debris. Remove intake faceplate if possible and check inside for any debris.

  • If external pump, check the leaf basket or priming pot for debris.

 

  1. PUMP SHUTTING OFF, NOT TURNING ON OR TRIPPING BREAKER

  • Make sure it is plugged in. Check the power source by using a voltage tester or even plugging in a small appliance and see if it comes on.

  • If power is not being supplied to the outlet, check the breaker or GFI that your pump is connected to. Your GFI will usually have black a and red buttons., but will always be labeled reset and test. This will likely be in your garage or kitchen. It’s likely your electrician set one up for your pond specifically. Press the reset button on the GFI to reset the breaker. If you reset the breaker or GFI and it keeps tripping, it’s likely that your pump is bad.

 

  1. HOW DO I KNOW IF IT’S TIME TO REPLACE MY PUMP?

  • If the breaker is tripping then it must be tested to see if it is faulty. GFI outlets tend to wear over time and it’s a good idea to have it tested before replacing an expensive pump. If the GFI breaker continues to trip, and confirmed not defective, it is likely your pump is going out. Exterior pumps will sometimes have a loud noise when they are about to go out.

 

IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO COMPLETE THIS CHECKLIST, DO NOT WORRY. WE ARE HERE TO HELP! Please email/call/text us to schedule a diagnoses appointment.

 

IF YOU COMPLETED THIS CHECKLIST and your pump is still experiencing issues, then it’s likely you need a new pump. It is best to purchase your pump ahead of time so we can install upon arrival.  If you wish for us to pick up the pump for you, we will need to collect a materials deposit ahead of time. We can come by to pick up the deposit, go purchase the pump and return (likely another day) to replace the pump. To avoid extra delivery fees, you can mail us a check ahead of time and only be billed for one trip charge.

 

*If in the event a new pump is purchased and not needed, please be sure that your vendor accepts returns unless you wish to keep it as a backup.

LEAK TROUBLESHOOTING & CONSULTATION

 

If you suspect a leak in your pond and would like to begin the troubleshooting process, we recommend the following steps to identify where the leak could be coming from before scheduling an onsite consultation. This will help you understand your pond better, quicken the repair process and potentially avoid extra fees.

 

TROUBLESHOOTING PROCESS:

  • NOTE: Water level in any pond can drop up to 3/8” per day from evaporation.

  • Make sure pond is at normal operating water level. Shut your pump off and wait for the water level to settle, physically mark and take note of water level to determine your baseline. If you have a multiple tiered setup, wait until the lower pond regulates; the water level stops moving.  (IMPORTANT: Be prepared to aerate when shutting off your pond if you have fish!)

  • Using a tape measure, measure the water level 24 hours after shutting off pump. 

  • IF THE WATER LEVEL drops: if it has dropped more than 3/8” below your baseline mark, water is likely escaping through the lining of the pond body. Continue to let it drop until it stops to help determine the location of the leak.

  • IF THE WATER LEVEL DOESN’T CHANGE when you shut the pump off, then the leak is not in the body of the pond. Turn the waterfall back on and fill it to its proper level. Note how far it drops in 24 hours. If it drops more than 3/8” the leak is likely in the waterfall or the plumbing.

  • TAKE A PICTURE OR MARK where the water stopped dropping rapidly. This means more than 3/8’ inch per day. EX: The first 24hr period it drops 1 inch, mark it. Second 24hr period drops 1/8’ mark it and call us.

  • This process usually takes 2-4 days, but can go longer depending on the size of your pond and how well tracking is kept.

  • In our experience 80/90% of leaks are in the waterfall.

 

IF YOU DO NOT WISH TO START THE TROUBLESHOOTING PROCESS, DO NOT WORRY! WE ARE HERE TO HELP! We can come out and do a thorough search to find any holes. If we are able to find any leaks, we can start repairing right away. Sometimes it is very difficult to find a leak because it could be hidden behind any number of rocks or anything else in your pond and must complete the above process to first determine the level the leak is at. If we cannot fix it on initial site visit, we will begin a multiple visit process to pinpoint water loss.

 

SOMETIMES A POND WILL HAVE MULTIPLE LEAKS. ONCE THE PROCESS IS COMPLETED AND THE INITIAL LEAK IS REPAIRED, YOUR POND WILL STILL DROP BECAUSE OF ANOTHER LEAK OR SET OF LEAKS. We cannot predict where every leak is coming from without the troubleshooting process. Please understand that if your pond needs lots of repair, this process could be lengthy.

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Don Johanson -Owner

Phone

512-508-0811

Email

austinpondclean@gmail.com

Monday-Friday 9am - 5pm